VasCO! VasCO!
November 10th, 2005I’m again blogging on the plane, though admittedly this time I’m not posting while in flight.
The last week has been an amazing time. Since my last post, I left Iguaçu Falls to headed off to the infamous Rio de Janeiro, where I surprised Lisa by showing up a day earlier than I had originally planned (Iguaçu Falls, I’m using the Brazilian spelling, while cool, had naught to offer me for a third day). I swung into the Rio lifestyle in a hurry after Lisa was able to tack me on as a guest on a Rotaract cruise in Rio’s bay that was happening that night. It was a bit of a tough night—not only do Latin parties go late, but the language at this party was Portuguese. Lisa fared much better than I, but sign language, good intentions, some alcohol, and a small crowd of English-speaking exchange students goes a long way.
Rio was a five day whirlwind of fantastic times. Vasco vs. Athletico futbol game, favela tour, Lapa Stret Party, Santa Teresa, Christ the Redeemer, Pao do Açucar, beaches, açai, sucos, feijada, churassco, the list goes on and on.
The favela tour was an eye-opener, but not in the expected way. A favela is a place where the poorest of the poor live—in the case of Rio this is about 20% of the population. The favelas had been described as a Very Bad place, but I had a hunch from my other travels that this was probably a little over hyped. This turned out to be true—there are many friendly faces and very genuine people there. What surprised me the most was the quality of the conditions, which was to say, quite good! Lisa comments that some of the places in the favela are nicer than her apartment in Montevideo and I’ve seen severely worse housing conditions in Manila. The eye opener here is that unprivileged life in Brazil is not very painful, but places like Manila are really in the dire straights by contrast.
The Vasco x Athletico futbol game was sheerly amazing. Cheering crowds of fans I’ve witnessed anywhere else in the world do not compare to the voracity of the Brazilians. Here, the drums simply do not stop anytime from the pre-game clear through to the post-game. Vasco, a traditional and successful Rio team, has loads of team songs, all of which the fans know and proclaim loudly. My group showed up a couple minutes after kick off. I’m never going to forget the moment, when we were walking into the stadium and through cheering Vasco fans, that a Vasco forward took a good shot on goal and hundreds of people around me erupted in a chest thumping, “HUAH!” Oh yes, it was going to be a good night…
It was even better after Vasco won, dois a um (2 to 1). We left the stadium in a jubilant mood, for some of us, a little too jubilant. Nick, a big Indian surfer guy with a few beers in him, could do nothing but chant, “Vasco, Vasco, Vasco, Vasco,” as we left the stadium and found our van. We were caught in the game traffic on the way out, but who cares, we’re having a great time, our van is blaring music, and our guide, Paulo, is fielding our requests and yelling at the sidewalk vendors to bring us beers and meat sticks as we coasted by. After a few turns, we lost the traffic, but not the party. Paulo is sitting on a window ledge, most of his body outside of the window as we navigated the streets, beer in hand. The music is still blaring and Nick is still going, “Vasco, Vasco, Vasco, Vasco.” Until saw red flashing lights behind us…
We stop and three cops get out, each toting a well-used AR-15, the little brother of the M16 assault rifle. It’s standard issue equipment for cops in Rio and in this case, all three were pointed at our van. Nick summed it up best when he called out, “oh sh*t, he’s got a gatt!” As Paulo would later translate for us, they yelled, “everyone out of the van!” As the only person to understand this, Paulo handed his beer to someone for hiding and he slid out of the van, closing the door behind him.
Paolo tells the cops, “whoa, hey, they’re tourists, things are cool!”
The cops, not amused, “dude, you were sitting outside the fu*king window!”
Lying through his teeth, Paulo replies, “Nooo, man, I was looking for the sign to Copacabana!”
At this moment, Nick decides to start chanting again, “Vasco, Vasco, Vasco, Vasco.” Though this probably had some degree of potential of getting us all shot while kneeling over a shallow grave, I started laughing to the point of tears, because this was so incredibly funny and ill placed. One of the cops comes around the other side and asks what the score was. Nick answers in broken Portuguese and suddenly things are chill and everyone is talking futbol. Oh the Brazilians.
It was fun. Although I hope I’m not immortalized on Brazilian bumper stickers, cigarettes, drinks, condoms, etc, I’m going to take a cue from McArthur in the Philippines and declare, “I shall return.”
I’ve posted some photos from Brazil–more to come in the next few days.
